Muffuletta Goes Global
It succeeds where so many others have failed
Jeremy Iggers, Star Tribune
February 17, 2005
Maybe they should change the name from Muffuletta to J.D.'s Global Bistro. That would be a good way of letting customers know that the venerable cafe in St. Paul's St.
Anthony Park neighborhood has gone through some dramatic changes since J.D. Fratzke took over as chef.
The last time I checked in on Muffuletta was in the mid-'90s, and according to my tasting notes, it hadn't changed much since the mid-'80s. That's not surprising: All of the other restaurants in the Parasole family, including Manny's, Chino Latino, Figlio and the Good Earth seem to stay about the same, year after year.
So I really wasn't prepared for what awaited me this time around: a candle-lit chef-driven bistro with an imaginative globe-trotting menu.
Chef J.D. Fratzke's previous assignment was at Chino Latino, which specializes in "street food from the hot zones." At Muffuletta, the core menu is typical bistro fare, ranging from garlicky escargot bourguignonne and salmon rillettes (both excellent), to rib-eye steak frites and duck a l'orange; plus a few oddities like a Moroccan chicken tagine and pumpkin fazzoletti with blue cheese cream sauce. (A couple of burgers also are offered, as well as the restaurant's namesake, a New Orleans-style sandwich.)
But the most interesting part of his menu is the list of specials, which changes daily (the biggest selection is Tuesdays and Wednesdays), with a different theme each month. In January, Fratzke featured Spanish tapas, such as crisp-battered balls of salt cod in a red pepper cream sauce, a picant piquillo pepper stuffed with a savory rillette of rabbit, and asparagus spears topped with a thin blanket of manchego cheese, a drizzle of honey and a sprinkling of chopped almonds.
This month the theme is the spice trade, which gives Fratzke the perfect excuse to do what he seems to enjoy most, which is to have fun with exotic flavors, ranging from Spanish saffron to Moroccan ras al hanout (a seasoning mix that includes some 25 different spices, ranging from cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg to turmeric, cumin seeds, cayenne and lavender).
Fratzke, a native of Winona, allows his imagination to take him places where he has (apparently) never been in person, so his versions of Keralan fish curry and Moroccan chicken tagine don't bear much resemblance to the genuine article, but no matter -- both were quite tasty in their own right.
There's not much point in rhapsodizing about the fork-tender Moroccan spice-rubbed beef short ribs with preserved lemon relish, or the pan-seared Arctic char with braised leeks, wild mushrooms, prosciutto and lobster-citrus sauce, because by the time you read this, it will likely be long gone from the menu.
But several dishes from the regular menu are also worth mentioning. The cornmeal crusted calamari with preserved lemon aioli is exceptionally crisp and delicate, and the duck a l'orange is a distinct improvement over most classic versions: a sliced tender boneless breast, done medium-rare with a crisp golden skin.
There are a couple of dishes that I probably wouldn't order again. The richness of the cream sauce accompanying the wild mushroom ravioli overwhelmed all the more subtle flavors, and the cumin-dusted scallops over saffron risotto seemed a bit bland. But those are minor complaints.
Be sure to save room for dessert. Pastry chef/sous-chef Sarah Mutschler's renditions of such classics as pineapple upside-down cake, tarte Tatin, tiramisu and apple cranberry cobbler are very traditional, but absolutely delightful.
The wine list, also updated monthly, offers an imaginative global selection of intriguing labels, mostly from smaller producers, but has little to offer for under $8 a glass or $28 a bottle.
On Sunday nights, when sous-chef Mutschler takes charge, Muffuletta offers a prix-fixe three-course Sunday Supper for $20. Offerings change from week to week but typically include five entrees, ranging from meatloaf with mashed potatoes to chicken saltimbocca and salmon with spinach and lentils in a curry sauce; a vegetarian option is always available.
RESTAURANT REVIEW: 
(out of 4)